Thursday, April 10, 2014

Easy Tricorn Hat Tutorial

A few years ago I decided to go with a different look for the Renaissance Pleasure Faire. It was pirate weekend and I wanted something new.  The problem with costuming is that all the fun is in the planning and making, once you've worn it the costume becomes "this old thing" and you dread wearing it again.  This can be an expensive vice. But fun, don't forget the fun.  So I decided a sort of 1700's undressed style courtesan costume would be fun in pink. I think the story I came up with for this costume was, here's this courtesan whose wealthy gentleman friend asked her to accompany him on a trip to visit his plantation in the West Indies, early one morning as they approach their destination a ship is spotted off the horizon. Pirates! Our girl is only half dressed when the ship is boarded. Of course our pirate captain looks like Tom Mison so she's not that heartbroken over her patron's death defending the ship. But I digress, so If I am going to go historically inaccurate to the Renaissance Faire I am going all the way.  I found this amazing pink fabric in the LA garment district and was off and running from there.

The fabric on the left was the first one I found and the fabric on the right was the best I could find to match it. I believe the whole thing ran me $30.00! I love reasonably priced fabrics.  Originally I had made another corset but unfortunately after I had finished it I realized it was too big!  This was due to my error in using a pattern from one of the big 3 pattern companies.  Be warned, Simplicity, McCalls, and Butterick add ease to their historical costumes and if you are making a corset you have to remove it.  With a corset you use what is called "negative ease" it's smaller than you are.  Here's the original corset:


It was reversible and I wasn't happy about the pattern not matching up.  

So much wiser I made another, out of the pretty princess fabric above and changed the entire look that I had envisioned. I know, I know! Get to the tutorial. 

Items needed
Small straw hat
Fabric ( I used scraps)
Trim
Scissors
Glue gun
Curved needle
Upholstery thread
Sewing machine
Wired ribbon (optional)
Jeweled button (optional) 
Felt or flannel

I started with a cheap ($ .99) mini straw hat from Michaels and some pink scraps left over from the front panel on my skirt. 

I cut 2 circles of fabric a half inch wider than the brim then I measured the crown and cut out a slightly smaller circle from the center of my fabric circles. I then sewed the outer edges of the circles together, clipped and turned them right side out and placed the hat within the circles. 

Next, I clipped the inner circle and measured the crown starting at the base across the top to the base and cut another circle to cover the crown. On the underside I also clipped the circle and glued the fabric to the inside of the crown. Then I covered it with a strip of felt glued in place. 

I used a gathering stitch around the edge of the fabric. Then I hot glued the gathered edge where the brim and crown meet. 

Next I used trim around the crown to hide the join, again using my trusty glue gun. I also added trim around the underside of the brim. 
Next I turned up the sides. To hold the brim I used a good bit of hot glue and held it in place until it dried. Then using a curved needle and upholstery thread I hand tacked the brim in place sewing thru all layers, including the straw. 
Repeat turning up the other 2 sides. In the picture above you can see where the trim overlaps, I planned to hide it using some kind of decoration. 

All three sides are done. Yay!  
^^These things happen. Ouch! ^^

Next, I embellished the hat using a 2 inch wide wired ribbon. I used a length that was about 12 inches long and  pulled the wire on one side only to gather it. Then rolled the ribbon until it resembled a flower. I tacked the bottom with thread then added the jeweled button to the center and sewed/glued it to the brim of the hat hiding where the trim was joined.


And the entire outfit: 


Excuse the messy garage, since creating this costume I've had 3 kids grow up and move out of the house so I actually have a spare bedroom and am now sewing in air conditioned comfort! In the future, I plan on making a new chemise for this costume and a proper bodice in case I ever go to Costume College. But seriously, never underestimate the power of a pink corset.
 Here I am at the Faire: 

And since I'm me and I like my costumes with a bit of whimsy, I purchased these socks: 
                                      

I should mention I did the shoes too. I have a photo tutorial just sitting on my computer waiting to be uploaded. 

The cool thing about costuming and being a bit of a pack-rat is this, when Halloween comes along and I've last minute costumed the entire family and haven't made myself anything I can pull pieces together and outfit myself fairly quick. I did this in about 2 hours the night  of our church Halloween party "Trunk or Treat" 
I used the pink corset and chemise. I made a pink sparkly elastic waist skirt out if tulle, the wand was a ribbon wrapped dowel and the star and tooth were made from sparkly craft foam. I also purchased a gold glitter headband and added another tooth to it. The wings I purchased at Disneyland, I mean really, who could resist light up Tinkerbell wings!?! Not me!

Two things before I go, first sorry for the poor picture quality, most of these photos were taken with my old chocolate phone. Second, if you are like me and are done having children and you have a large personal space bubble, DON'T wear a sparkly pink skirt to a church function. I lost track of how many times I felt someone's little chocolate hands patting my skirt and saying "oooo pretty"! That was the last year I dressed pretty. Since then it's been mostly a "zombie" something. 
Cheers, 
Terri